Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing

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20th September 2020

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Tour Details

Kyazo Ri 6186m is situated in the Khumbu Region Just north of Namche Bazaar. The highest summit peak and separate the thame Valley to west and Gokyo valley to the east and run all the…

This is classic trekking peak, rarely climbed, with a wonderfully isolated base camp. Its technically hard especially summit day it has been compared with Ama Dablam, though at only 6186m but it required much less acclimatization. The normal route is south facing, catching the sun, and has some objective hazards such as rock fall or avalanche. Base camp is in a beautiful pristine location, hidden valley known as the Kyazo drangka which requires a long hike to reach it from Mende, about 4km from Namche bazaar. If you want more details please have look in the guide book of “Trekking in the Everest Region”. Raching Camp 1 to Base Camp is a long hiking day over rough terrain but no technically hard terrain. Camp 2 is relatively shorter but terrain is much harder and difficult scree and huge rocks/boulders. From camp 2 to summit is 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, most of which requires belaying, with one or two steep pitches of up to 60 degree gradient just below the summit.

Price Includes

  • Chhukung Ri Peak Climbing
  • Climbing guide / Sirdar (One climbing guide for 4 climbers)
  • One trekking guide/leader
  • Necessary porters including a cook (some nights will be camping and will require cook and cooking utensils)
  • All meals three times a day during the trek/climb (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)
  • Accommodations in tea-houses (lodges) and some nights for camping
  • Necessary trekking/camping equipment such as tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, down jackets, cooking utensils, etc.
  • Cooking fuel
  • Camping charges
  • Entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park
  • All land transportation (from hotel to airport and from airport to hotel)
  • Entry permit for Sagarmatha National Park
  • Insurance and equipment for the climbing & trekking staff
  • First Aid kit
  • 4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast at 2 start standard hotel
  • Airport pick-up and drop-off services

Price Excludes

  • Personal nature expenses
  • All drinks & beverages
  • Hot shower
  • Battery charges
  • Tips
  • Climbing equipment
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu

Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel. (1300m.-4264 ft)

Upon your arrival at Kathmandu airport (TIA), you will be greeted by a representative from Cultural Treks & Expedition. After completing your custom formalities (Visa, etc), you will be transferred to Hotel. After check in, you can take a rest, hang around in the city, visit our office – it all depends on your interests and condition.

Day 2 Kathmandu free and Preparation for Trekking & Climbing

After breakfast, you will get to the office and discuss about equipments checked by the climbing leader, prepare things as per need, introduce with fellow participants, and after Cultural Treks & Expedition briefs you about the trip, you get a chance to ask questions you might have regarding the trip. Overnight at hotel. Breakfast (B)

Day 3 Kathmandu - Lukla (2,800m.-9,184 ft)- Phakding (2,652m.-8,700 ft): 3-4 hrs

Early morning, after breakfast we get transferred to domestic airport to fly to Lukla. After an adventurous 40 minute flight above breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. At the airport, we meet our other crew members. We get time to stroll around while the guide divides and manages baggage to be carried by porters. We start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery. Overnight in Phakding. Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B,L,D).

Day 4 Phakding -Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs

The walk today is pleasant with few short uphill and downhill with multiple crossings over Dudh Koshi River and magnificent view of Mt. Thamserku (6,608m.-21,675ft) from the Benkar village. Cross some more bridges and reach the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, where our trekking permits are checked in order to keep record of trekkers and local trekking staffs as well. A descent and a gradual walk brings us to Jorsale, the last village before Namche Bazaar. Enjoying the walk along the river bed, we reach Hillary Suspension Bridge. As we climb uphill towards Namche Bazaar, close-up and magnificent sight of Kwangde Peak, its sister peaks, Kusum Kangaru, Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Tawache, and many other fabulous mountains look dominating the sky. We stop at the Chautara here to admire the view. Finally, we reach the colorful village of Namche Bazaar, the main gateway of Khumbu region. Overnight at Namche Bazaar. (B,L,D)

Day 5 Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day

This is first scheduled ‘acclimatization’ day for this expedition. Health experts always recommend us to stay active and moving during the rest day too instead of being idle. Namche Bazzar is the main center of the Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. If we trek a few hundred vertical feet during the day, it will help us to properly acclimatize. Visit the Tourist Visitor Center near the Sagarmatha National Park headquarters and observe an assortment of things related to the first Everest climbers, Sherpa culture and learn about the various plant and animal life of the Everest region. We also take an interesting side trip up to Khumjung and climb up to famous airstrip at Syangboche. Visit Hillary School which is at the same site. After having lunch and spending some time in Khumjung, walk back down to Namche Bazar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar. (B,L,D)

Day 6 Namche Bazaar, Dole (4,110m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs

We climb steeply out of Namche Bazaar up to Kyangjuma Village from where we can enjoy outstanding views of Thamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam. Most strenuous ascent of the day is obviously to pass the Mong La, a very charming place perched on the spur of Mt. Khumbila. An ancient historical Chorten stands at the centre of the settlement of Mong-La. We stop at the top of Mong-La to admire the grandstand views of surrounding snow-capped mountains and valleys while we have our lunch. The most outstanding feature of the trail today is the abundance of plant and animal vegetation including wildflowers and Rhododendrons. Spotting wild lives like pheasants, mountain goats, and the elusive musk deer while on the way is not unusual. Through forests, some waterfalls and bridges, we reach Dole; a small place with few teahouses. Overnight in Dole. (B,L,D).

Day 7 Dole - Machhermo (4,470m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs

Firstly, we climb steadily up through a scenic ridge above the Dole and the trail climbs via Lhabarma at 4220m. to Luza at 4360m. The path is steep in most places as we pass through thorny bushes up to Lhabarma. Offering us good views of Cho Oyu, Kantega, and Thamserku the trail takes us through many summer settlements and a charming hamlet of Luza (4360m.). While we ascend from Luza, the Dudh Koshi valley is deep like a canyon with its sheer sides. Walking along the hill side above thundering Dudkoshi passing through some small hamlets and through sandy spurs, we reach Machhermo. The beautiful stream flowing down from the Kyajo Ri and Phari Lapche mountains runs through the middle of village before draining into the Dudh Koshi. We visit the Himalayan Rescue Hospital here for a lecture regarding the altitude sickness, its precaution, and primary treatment. Precaution regarding altitude sickness is vital while trekking in the high altitude region, however our guides are quite knowledgeable about this. Overnight in Machhermo. (B,L,D)

Day 8 Machharmo - Gokyo (4800m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs

Today, we climb through a ridge Chorten from where we can see fabulous view of both down the valley and of the Mt. Kangtega, Thamserku, and northern part to the Cho-Oyu (8153m). Beyond the ridge the valley widens as the trail passes through a Chorten and reaches Pangka (4480 m) after some gentle walk. Phangka is the palace where an avalanche in 1995 killed 40 people. We descend to the river bank before beginning to climb up to the terminal moraine of the Ngozamba Glacier. It is a steep climb on the moraine. After crossing an iron bridge over an stream the trial levels out as it follows the valley past the first lake, known as Longpongo at 4690m, where we get chance to observe the Lama footprints on a stone. At the sight of the second lake, Taboche Tsho we become mesmerized by the shimmering turquoise blue sheet of water sparkling in the sun. Little ahead of the second lake, we reach the third lake, the two linked by a surging stream. Gokyo village stands by the third lake and Cho-Oyu Mountain as a backdrop sets an amazing spectacular sight here. After lunch, we explore around the third Lakes, Dudh Pokhari. We spend night in a teahouse with comfortable bedrooms. Overnight in Gokyo. (B,L,D)

Day 9 Gokyo to Lungden (4,600m.-15,088ft) via Renjo La pass (5,435-17,827ft): 5-6 hrs

The complicated day crossing via Renjo La pass. From Gokyo, we head west crossing the high pass of the Renjo La at (5411m.-17,750 ft). After early breakfast we head towards the lake back and climb up to the top of Renjo la. We continue down the west side of the pass, descending all the way down to Lungden at (4500m.-14,760 ft). During the walk can be seen the best view of Himalayan range from way to Renjo-La and on descent can be seen the view of Kyajo Ri and arrive at Lungden for overnight. (B,L,D)

Day 10 Trek down to Thame & Mende (3736m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs

Today, we make a short walk of about 2 hrs descending to Thame village one of the beautiful Sherpa village western part of Khumbu and adjoining part of Rolwaling Himalayan ranges. Thame is popular town for Sherpa Climbers and the beautiful Monastery as well best view of Himalayan Ranges. From Thame we turn east, heading back in the direction of Namche Bazar and almost completing an entire circumnavigation of Kyajo Ri. We will camp in Mende (3740m.-12,270 ft) a small town at the entrance of the Kyajo Drangka. (B,L,D)

Day 11Trek to Kyajo Ri base camp (4550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs

Above Mende we leave the main trails and follow a faint yak trail up over a couple of passes to enter the Kyajo Drangka; the isolated broad valley south of Kyajo Ri. Enjoy the views of Mt. Thamserku, Khumbila, Kusum Kangaru, Kwangde, Pachharmo and surrounding Himalayan ranges. Kyajo Ri Base Camp is set up between the rocky mountain with flat ground in a side of small river. This is one of the summer yak pasture and a nice place to set up camp. (B,L,D)

Day 12 Rest Day At Kyajo Ri Base Camp

This is an important phase of the expedition. Proper acclimatization is essential before the summit push. We take opportunity to hike around to acclimatize and to take pictures. If the weather is good we can take beautiful pictures from Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Another intention to rest here today is also for preparing and arranging the climbing equipments for the Kyajo Ri peak climbing. Overnight at Camp 1. (B,L,D)

Day 13 Trek to Camp 1 (5200m.-17056 ft): 4-5 hrs

The ascent to Camp 1 at over 5200 meters from base camp at around 4,600 meters involves a 2 hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. After half an hour walk the trails follows the upward rocky section with a lot of boulders and skid pebbles. Another 3 hours steep walk then get to the Camp 1. Enjoy the scenery of Kyajo Ri and small glacial lakes. (B,L,D)

Day 14 Trek to Camp 2 (5700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs

Camp 1 to Camp 2 involve some technical climbing over mixed face slopes up to 40 degrees as well as negotiating through the glacier and rock. Camp 2 lies near the glacier. We can see the climbing route that we will attempt the next day. We pitch our camp near big glacier lake. Camp 2 is located at about 5700m/18,700ft. If the weather favors us, we may also get pleasing sunlight during the day. Overnight at Camp 2. (B,L,D)

Day 15 Summit Day and Back to Camp 2: 10-12 hrs

Our summit day begins in the early morning, at about 3:00 am. After light breakfast we start to climb though the rocky part with boulders and after a walk reach at Glacier part from where it’s fairly hard to climb. Here the surface steepens up to about 75 degrees, and we climb snow and ice on the Southwest Ridge. There is one short rock section but primarily the climbing is on snow and blue ice. The sharp summit is a narrow wedge of snow. After spending some time in celebrations and taking pictures on the summit, we return back to Camp 1. As you know that we are taking south east route and our leader will take you up to the summit and on the return back we should back to camp 2.(B,L,D)

Day 16 Contingency DayTrek from Phakding to Lukla

There is no such guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 16). So we keep this day as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Kyajo Ri Peak on day 16 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather gets exceptionally unfavorable, we would have to wisely postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 16 for toady (Day 17). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day. (B,L,D)

Day 17 Trek back to Kyase Cjo Ri Baamp: 7-8 hrs

We have made it! Today we return back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp, and celebrate the success of our trip. Overnight at camp. (B,L,D)

Day 18 Base Camp to Namche: 5-6 hrs

Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar. After a great success we return back the same way via Mende, Thame to Namche. It takes about 5-6 hrs from BC to Namche Bazar. Overnight at Namche. (B,L,D)

Day 19 Trek Namche to Lukla: 6-7 hrs

The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk slowly and under control as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast following Dud Koshi and its tributaries the trail becomes more level and natural. Although we are traveling the same route down, we feel completely different views. We snap a mixture of open plains, rhododendron and pine forests, and in the distance snow covered peaks. Overnight in Phakding. We feel the Sherpa villages’ impressive faith in Buddhism and culture of prayer stones and prayers flag while we walk through the villages. Overnight in Lukla. (B,L,D)

Day 20 Fly back to Kathmandu

We fly back to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. The flight time to Kathmandu is schedule for morning normally because of the wind in the afternoon. However, sometimes the flight may be delayed due to bad weather and other reasons. After arrival in Kathmandu, you will be transferred to your hotel. You can rest and relax throughout the day in the hotel. If interested to take some gifts from Nepal for friends and relatives, you can visit to some nearby shops or venture out in Thamel for typical Nepalese goods which can be assisted by our guides or you can do it yourself too. If fascinated to explore some other areas of Kathmandu you can do that today. We will be hosting a fantastic celebration dinner together for successful completion of the Kyajo Ri Expedition. (B,L,D)

Day 21 Transfer to Airport for your onward Journey. (Final Departure).

Free and final departure day. There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight a representative from Cultural Treks & Expedition will take you to the airport. On your way home you’ll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal. (B)